Palestine sport climbing – a unique experience by Tim Bruns

Turn on the news and, when it comes to Palestine, you will hear only of protracted conflict, protests, Israeli settlements, and failed peace negotiations. But, despite its very real troubles, there is much more to this small piece of land that is steeped in the history and culture of thousands of civilizations.

Although the solid, colourful limestone and mild climate are reminiscent of other Mediterranean sport climbing destinations, climbing in Palestine is truly unique. Rock climbing, a sport that is essentially about moving your body freely through otherwise inaccessible terrain, holds special significance in a place where freedom of movement is severely limited for Palestinians.

Climbing in Palestine is spread out across nine different areas, most of them located in the mountainous region near the central West Bank city of Ramallah. By “Palestine,” a contested and vague word in and of itself, we are referring specifically to the West Bank (there is no rock climbing in the coastal Gaza Strip and access for foreigners is near impossible). The vast majority of the climbing consists of single-pitch sport routes on limestone that varies slightly from area to area. The occasional “trad” or multi-pitch route can be found in Wadi Tamer or Ein Fara. One of the best things about climbing in Palestine is the easy access for visitors (access for Palestinians can be complicated by proximity to Israeli settlements and checkpoints). Most of the areas detailed in the recently released Climbing Palestine guidebook can be reached by public transportation (yellow “service” mini-busses) from Ramallah and a short walk.

At the cliffs, you will find a relaxed vibe and a small but growing, dedicated, and welcoming Palestinian climbing community. Perhaps the best part of climbing in Palestine is enthusiasm of the local climbers, who are more than happy to show visitors around, invite them to eat meals cooked over an open fire at the base of the cliffs, and even share the hookah pipe that, besides the rope and quickdraws, is considered mandatory gear for some. The routes themselves are well-equipped with bolts and anchor stations (with rappel rings). A 60-meter rope and 12 draws is enough for the vast majority of the climbs in Palestine. The visiting climber will find a wide array of grades from French 4 all the way up to numerous un-climbed projects that are waiting for a first ascent (between F8a and F8c).

“But isn’t it dangerous?!” The short answer to this question, in regards to the visitor (climber or otherwise) is no. Thousands of tourists visit the West Bank every year and, statistically speaking, travelling in Palestine is quite safe (petty crime, for example, is extremely rare). Foreigners have the unique privilege afforded to them by their passports to easily cross between Israeli and Palestinian areas. The occupation of the West Bank by the Israeli military is visible at every turn and life for Palestinians is affected in almost every way. Climbing proves to be a unique medium through which to understand this on a deeper level. The visiting climber will travel through a landscape overridden by Israeli checkpoints, military bases, settlements, and barriers. These dystopian means of control stand in sharp contradiction to, and coexist with, the beautiful, idyllic landscapes of olive groves, deserts, and impressive valleys.

Tim Bruns along with three German climbers has written Climb Palestine, the definitive guidebook to sport climbing in Palestine. It details over 340 routes across a wide range of grades, with the majority of them between F5c and F7a. Buy the Climb Palestine Guidebook from our shop.